Understanding Keratin Hair Treatments

1. What is Keratin?

Keratin is a natural protein that makes up the primary structure of hair, skin, and nails. In hair specifically, it plays a crucial role in maintaining strength, elasticity, and overall health. Each strand of hair is made up of keratin chains held together by disulfide bonds, which determine the hair’s shape, strength, and resistance to damage.

Over time, keratin in the hair is depleted due to factors such as:

  • Frequent heat styling (blow dryers, flat irons, curling tools)

  • Chemical treatments (coloring, bleaching, relaxers, perms)

  • Environmental stress (sun exposure, pollution, humidity)

  • Mechanical stress (rough brushing, tight hairstyles, towel-drying)

When hair loses keratin, it becomes dull, frizzy, brittle, and difficult to manage. Keratin treatments work by infusing hydrolyzed keratin and other proteins into the cuticle to rebuild and reinforce the internal structure of the hair. The result is smoother, shinier, and more manageable hair with reduced frizz and breakage.

Understanding the science of keratin and its restorative effects allows professional hairdressers to customize treatments to suit different hair types, conditions, and client goals.

2. Types of Keratin-Based Treatments

There are three main categories of keratin treatments used in professional salons. Each type serves a different purpose and produces different results depending on the client's hair type and expectations.

A. Smoothing Treatments (e.g., Brazilian Blowout, Keratin Complex)

These treatments aim to reduce frizz, increase shine, and improve manageability without significantly altering the natural curl or wave pattern. They work by sealing keratin and other ingredients into the cuticle using heat, primarily with a flat iron. Smoothing treatments are ideal for clients who want to:

  • Reduce blow-drying time

  • Combat humidity and frizz

  • Improve hair texture and control

Results last 2–4 months, depending on the product and aftercare routine.

B. Straightening Keratin Treatments

These are more intensive treatments designed to relax curls and waves, resulting in a straighter appearance. While similar in procedure to smoothing treatments, straightening keratin treatments may contain stronger formulas or require more flat-ironing passes at higher temperatures. Some products may still contain formaldehyde or formaldehyde derivatives, so extra caution is required.

These treatments are suitable for clients who want:

  • Straighter hair with minimal to no curl

  • Long-lasting results (up to 4–6 months)

  • A semi-permanent alternative to traditional relaxers

Always inform clients about the semi-permanent nature of these treatments, and assess hair condition before proceeding.

C. Keratin Reconstructors or Repair Masks

These treatments focus primarily on restoring and repairing damaged hair rather than altering its shape. They contain keratin, amino acids, and other nourishing ingredients that rebuild weakened hair shafts. These are ideal for:

  • Severely damaged or chemically treated hair

  • Clients not looking for straightening or smoothing

  • Prepping hair before color services or major styling changes

These are often used as salon conditioning treatments or retail products for home use.

3. Key Ingredients and Safety

Modern keratin products often combine keratin with other ingredients such as amino acids, hydrolyzed proteins, and conditioning agents. Be cautious of treatments containing formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing agents, as these can pose health risks. Opt for formaldehyde-free formulations and ensure proper ventilation during the application process.

4. Hair Assessment and Consultation

Before performing a keratin treatment:

  • Conduct a thorough consultation with the client. Understand their hair type, previous chemical treatments, and desired outcome.

  • Perform a strand test to evaluate hair elasticity and compatibility with the chosen product.

  • Determine whether the client’s hair needs a smoothing treatment or a reconstructive treatment based on its current condition and texture.

Conclusion

Keratin treatments, when used correctly, can significantly enhance hair health, manageability, and appearance. As a professional hairdresser, understanding the science behind keratin and mastering the application process will help you provide safer, more effective, and tailored solutions for your clients’ hair needs.